the forecast system
If someone starts to work every day at 9:00am and takes 60 minutes on traffic, it's possible to predict the time to leave its house, an hour earlier. Is a standard behavior. Even though some days it might occur a delay or absence, most days the commute will make the person to leave, always at the same time.
Predicting waves is a similar process. This standard is described by mathematical equations and physical relations, seeking the understanding of waves on deep waters. Moreover, the behavior until it reaches the shore, and finally, breaks on the beach.
wave spectrum action balance equation, the basis of wave forecast model
The most representative statistical parameters of a swell are: 'significant wave height', 'direction peak' and 'peak period'. The combination of these data, with wind direction and intensity, are the most important indicators to be analyzed by surfers, who are always seeking the best surfing conditions.
Below is a summary of how our wave forecast system works.